Fashion

With around 800 buyers, 2,000 journalists and 400 photographers from all over the world coming to its ready-to-wear and haute couture fashion shows, Paris continues to stand out as the international crossroads of fashion design. French, Japanese, Belgian, Brazilian, English, American, Italian, Dutch... Over fifteen nationalities are represented on the Paris podiums every six months. Close-up on some couturiers and fashion designers who, quite apart from these essential fashion events, have a special link with the capital.

Since 1983, the name Karl Lagerfeld has been associated with that of Chanel, for which he has designed all the lines. Also responsible for the collections of the Roman label Fendi and at the head of the Lagerfeld Gallery brand, this passionate hard-working man has managed to adapt to his own times all the codes of elegance dear to Coco Chanel.
Son of a large German manufacturing family, the fashion designer, born in 1938, came to Paris over half a century ago to pursue his secondary studies. In 1954, at the age of sixteen, he won the competition organised by the wool secretariat, jointly with Yves Saint Laurent. A man with over two hundred thousand books and his own publishing house, 7L, he was already reading French as a child, in the Letters from Elisabeth, Palatine Princess.

After thirty years of a fashion filled with colours borrowed from folk traditions around the world, the designer chose, in 1999, to leave his brand, owned by the LVMH group. In his loft in Bastille, in which teahouse and 18th-century French furniture live side by side, Kenzo has just launched, at the age of sixty five, a line of scarves under the label Gokan Kobo.

"I feel good in Paris and in New York. But the energy is different here. In Paris, I never have that feeling of urgency, of pressure," asserts Marc Jacobs who now lives in France. With this designer, who is surfing the fashion wave whilst respecting the heritage of the brand, Louis Vuitton can lie back and enjoy the celebrations of its hundred and fifty years.



As a young man, Alphadi dreamt of being a fashion designer, not a particularly well-regarded occupation for a man in Niger. Under family pressure, he opted to study tourism, and pursued this course in Paris, thanks to a grant from the French government. As determined as he is passionate, he nevertheless studied fashion in the evenings and at the age of twenty seven decided to make it his trade. "France gave me the inspiration for my designs and the freedom to create," he says. "France has adopted me and helped me to realise my dreams. When I founded the International Festival of African Fashion (FIMA) in 1998, I received a huge amount of encouragement from top French fashion designers".
See also, in previous issues of Label France, the "Haute couture" feature (No. 23) and "Takeover of the great fashion houses" (No. 52).



