Croatia - Velika Gospa

The Velika Gospa monastery complex

The church of Velika Gospa (Santa Maria Alta), near Bale in Istria (Croatia), stands at the centre of a monastery complex that was probably founded in the second half of the eighth century. Five archaeological digs (1995-1999) brought to light a series of adaptations and modifications made to this site, which is remarkable for its exceptional longevity (over one thousand years). As a result of these digs, the archaeologists were able to discover that the church had undergone three phases of construction, clearly a sign that it was invested with a strong and lasting religious significance.

The discovery of rich liturgical furnishings and twelve capitals with carved foliage or interlaced designs, dating from the Carolingian period, give the site inestimable value: rare indeed are the buildings from this period that contain such artistic diversity.

Presentation

The relative lack of written material on the Velika Gospa monastery complex contrasts with the wealth of discoveries that have been made, starting with the first finds in 1955 and culminating with the systematic digs organised since 1995. Located inland, not far from the crest of a hill offering a wide view of the coast in the south of Rovinj (Rovigno), the complex is unique for its variety of vestiges from the Carolingian period (second half of the eighth century).

The few sources that exist on the complex suggest that it was the monastery of Santa Maria di Cerr, which depended on the monastery of Saint Andrews on “Red Island” across from Rovigno, and that it was turned over to the monks of Monte Cassino sometime around the middle of the ninth century. The arrival of Italian monks would certainly have led to architectural (or at least liturgical) alterations. This line of reasoning needs to be explored.

The complex undoubtedly succeeded a structure from Antiquity. Excavations led to the north-west and south-east of the elevated walls of the modern church have revealed structures dating back to the Roman period. Pagan architectural elements (column capitals, shafts, altar) were obviously reproduced for practical reasons. They also reflect the desire to permanently “Christianize” the complex. However, the movement that presided over the monastery’s construction appears first and foremost to be related to the modification of the religious and political conditions governing the region. It is interesting to note that Istria’s transition to Carolingian rule in 788 probably coincided with the building of the Velika Gospa monastery. The foundation can be dated back to the same year, more or less, thanks to the update of a group of twelve large capitals with carved foliage or interlaced designs. Thus, there is every reason to believe that the community living at Velika Gospa obeyed the Order of Saint Benedict. The church was built on a basilican plan, with a nave and two aisles separated by two lines of six columns, each ending in a semi-circular apse on the interior and a polygonal apse on the exterior. The east area adjacent to the building contains a series of rooms that undoubtedly made up the wing of a cloister, probably arranged in a terraced formation due to the inclination of the land. In the ninth and tenth centuries, a chapel (memoria), soon decorated with frescoes, was annexed in the southwest portion of the site.

The church was reduced in size in the Roman era, given a new pavement, and continued to be used by monks and then canons until the end of the Middle Ages. At that time, the community of Augustinians appeared to have abandoned the monastery. However, the trace of their presence, associated with their devotion to the Virgin Mary, can be found in the many graves placed within and beside the sanctuary, while the presence of pottery fragments suggests that liturgical ceremonies were continued even into the sixteenth century.

The building came to ruin, though, in the following century. In 1789, it was rebuilt for a third time, as witnessed by the inscription above the new entrance. The “baroque” church was reduced to the area of the nave from the second construction period, integrating several blocks from the primitive sanctuary within the base of its walls. New, often simple graves indicate that the site maintained its propitiatory significance, and only ceased its functions in 1953.